Replace Bathtub Guide: Essential Tips

Replacing your bathtub is a rewarding DIY project that can refresh your bathroom’s look and function. This guide provides essential tips for a smooth, beginner-friendly process, covering planning, tools, removal, installation, and finishing touches for a reliable, beautiful result.

Tired of that old, chipped, or outdated bathtub? You’re not alone! Many homeowners dream of a bathroom upgrade, and replacing the bathtub is a big part of that. It can seem like a daunting task, but with the right preparation and a clear understanding of the steps involved, you can absolutely tackle this project yourself. Get ready to transform your bathroom into a space you’ll love. We’ll walk you through everything you need to know, from gathering your tools to the final sealant, ensuring a safe and successful bathtub replacement.

Why Replace Your Bathtub?

There are several compelling reasons to consider replacing your bathtub. Over time, tubs can show wear and tear that goes beyond cosmetic fixes. Stains that won’t come out, chips, cracks, or a general feeling of an unhygienic surface can all signal that it’s time for a change. Beyond just wear, styles evolve, and a new tub can significantly update the aesthetic of your entire bathroom. It’s also an opportunity to consider different materials or sizes that might better suit your needs and preferences. A bathtub replacement isn’t just about a new fixture; it’s about improving your home’s comfort, functionality, and value.

Planning Your Bathtub Replacement

Before you even think about touching a wrench, careful planning is key to a successful bathtub replacement. This stage prevents costly mistakes and ensures you have everything you need on hand.

1. Assess Your Current Tub and Space

Tub Type: Are you replacing like-for-like (e.g., insert tub with insert tub) or changing to a different style (e.g., alcove to drop-in)? This impacts demolition and installation.
Access: How will you get the old tub out and the new one in? Measure doorways, hallways, and any staircases carefully. Some tubs are very heavy and bulky.
Plumbing: Note the location of your drain and overflow. Is it standard, or will you need to reroute plumbing? This is crucial for compatibility with your new tub.
Surrounding Materials: What are your walls made of? Tile, drywall, or another material will affect how you detach the old tub and how you’ll finish the new one.

2. Choose Your New Bathtub

This is the fun part! Bathtubs come in various materials, styles, and sizes. Consider these factors:

Material Options

The material of your new tub affects its durability, weight, cost, and feel.

Material	Pros	Cons	Beginner Friendliness
Acrylic	Lightweight, durable, easy to clean, warm to the touch, good insulation, wide range of colors/styles.	Can scratch or crack under heavy impact, may fade over time with harsh cleaners.	High – Easy to handle and install.
Fiberglass	Very lightweight, inexpensive, easy to install.	Less durable than acrylic, can scratch, crack, or fade more easily, not as good at holding heat.	High – Very easy to handle.
Cast Iron	Extremely durable, excellent heat retention, classic look, resistant to scratches.	Very heavy (requires multiple people or special equipment), expensive, takes longer to heat up.	Low – Heavy and difficult to maneuver.
Steel	More durable than fiberglass, less expensive than cast iron, lighter than cast iron.	Can chip or scratch, enamel can be damaged by harsh chemicals, prone to rust if chipped.	Medium – Manageable weight but requires careful handling.
Solid Surface	Seamless look, non-porous, hygienic, durable, repairable.	Expensive, heavy, can scratch but is repairable.	Medium – Heavy but offers a premium finish.

Tub Styles

Alcove Tub: Designed to fit into a three-walled recess. Most common type.
Drop-In Tub: Sits within a framed deck or surround. Easier to install than other types.
Freestanding Tub: Stands alone, not attached to any walls. Creates a spa-like feel but requires specific plumbing.
Corner Tub: Fits into a corner, often larger than standard tubs.

3. Gather Your Tools and Materials

Having everything ready before you start will save you a lot of frustration. Here’s a comprehensive list:

Essential Tools:

Safety Glasses
Work Gloves
Pry Bar Set
Adjustable Wrenches (various sizes)
Pipe Wrench
Utility Knife
Reciprocating Saw (Saber Saw) with appropriate blades (wood, metal, demolition)
Pliers (slip-joint and channel-lock)
Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
Caulking Gun
Level
Measuring Tape
Bucket
Drop Cloths or Tarps
Putty Knife
Drill/Driver with various bits
Stud Finder
Shop Vacuum

Materials:

New Bathtub
New Drain and Overflow Assembly
Plumber’s Putty or Silicone Sealant
PVC Primer and Cement (if using PVC pipes)
Wood for framing/support (if needed)
Screws (appropriate for your wall and subfloor)
Caulk (bathroom-grade, mold-resistant)
Cement Board or Waterproof Wall Panels (if needed for surround)
Plywood (for subfloor reinforcement if necessary)

4. Check Local Building Codes

It’s always a good idea to be aware of your local building codes. Websites like the International Code Council (ICC) offer valuable resources and information on plumbing and construction standards that ensure safety and proper installation.

Step-by-Step Bathtub Removal Process

Removing the old bathtub is often the messiest part. Take your time and work safely.

Step 1: Turn Off the Water Supply

Locate the main water shut-off valve for your house and turn it off. If you have individual shut-off valves for the bathroom, use those. Open faucets in the house to drain residual water from the pipes.

Step 2: Disconnect Plumbing Fixtures

Faucet and Shower Head: Remove the handles and spout of your faucet. You may need a small screwdriver or allen wrench for handle screws. The spout often unscrews counter-clockwise. Remove the shower head by unscrewing it from the shower arm. The shower arm might need to be unscrewed from the wall pipe.
Drain and Overflow: Access is key here. You might need to remove the escutcheon plate (trim plate) around the overflow drain. Use a screwdriver or pliers to remove the overflow cover. For the tub drain, you may need a drain wrench or a long-handled pliers to unscrew the drain flange from inside the tub. Sometimes, there’s an access panel behind the faucet wall that lets you reach the trap assembly. If not, you may need to cut into the wall or access it from a basement or crawl space. Disconnect the drainpipe from the trap.

Tip: Keep a plug or rag handy to stuff into the open drainpipe to prevent sewer gases from escaping into your bathroom.

Step 3: Remove Wall Surround and Sealant

Caulking: Use a sharp utility knife to cut through all the caulk and sealant around the edges of the tub where it meets the walls and floor.
Wall Panels/Tile: If you have tile, you’ll need to remove tiles at least one or two rows above the tub lip. If you have fiberglass surround panels, these are usually attached with screws or adhesive. Remove them carefully. Drywall surrounding the tub will likely need to be cut back a few inches to expose the tub flange.

Step 4: Detach the Tub from the Walls

Most alcove tubs have a flange around the top edge that is nailed or screwed into the wall studs. Use your utility knife to score the wall material above the flange if you haven’t already. Then, use a reciprocating saw or hammer and pry bar to carefully break the seals and detach any fasteners that are holding the tub flange to the wall studs. Be cautious not to damage the studs themselves if they are in good condition.

Step 5: Remove the Old Bathtub

This is the moment of truth! If your tub is attached stubbornly, you might need to use your reciprocating saw to cut it into smaller, more manageable pieces. This is especially true for heavy cast iron or steel tubs.
Carefully pry the tub away from the wall and floor.
With help from a friend (highly recommended for most tubs, especially cast iron), maneuver the old tub out of the bathroom and out of your home.

Step-by-Step Bathtub Installation Process

Installing the new tub requires precision. Patience here pays off with a leak-free, stable fixture.

Step 1: Prepare the Subfloor and Studs

Clean the area thoroughly.
Inspect the subfloor for any water damage or rot. Repair or replace any damaged sections. Plywood is often used for reinforcement.
Ensure the wall studs where the tub flange will attach are plumb (perfectly vertical) and sound. Add shims if necessary to create a solid, level surface.

Step 2: Install the New Drain and Overflow Assembly

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific drain and overflow kit. This typically involves:

Applying plumber’s putty or silicone sealant to the underside of the drain flange and installing it into the tub drain opening.
Installing the overflow plate and gasket, ensuring a watertight seal.
Connecting the drain and overflow pipes beneath the tub according to the manufacturer’s guide. Use appropriate cement for PVC pipes.

Step 3: Set the New Bathtub in Place

Carefully maneuver the new tub into the alcove or designated space. Again, getting help is crucial to avoid damage to the tub or your home.
For alcove tubs, ensure the flange sits flush against the studs.
Use a level to check that the tub is level side-to-side and front-to-back. Shim under the rim or base if necessary. A level tub ensures water drains properly and prevents stress on the fixture.

Step 4: Secure the Bathtub

Many tubs have pre-drilled holes in the flange for screws or nails. If yours doesn’t, you may need to drill them yourself.
Fasten the tub flange to the wall studs using screws or nails. Distribute fasteners evenly along the flange. Be careful not to overtighten, which can crack acrylic or fiberglass tubs.

Step 5: Reconnect and Test Plumbing

Reconnect the drainpipe to the trap assembly, ensuring a tight, leak-proof connection.
Temporarily reassemble the faucet, shower head, and overflow cover (if removed).
Fill the tub with a few inches of water and carefully check for any leaks at the drain, overflow, and any pipe connections. Let the water sit for a while to ensure no seepage occurs.
Drain the tub and check all connections again.

Step 6: Install Wall Surround and Finish

If you had to cut back drywall, you’ll need to repair and prepare it for new wall coverings.
Install cement board or your chosen waterproof wall panels according to manufacturer instructions.
Ensure new tile or wall panels extend down to overlap the tub lip slightly, creating a barrier against water.
Reinstall faucet trim, shower arm, and shower head.

Step 7: Caulk and Seal

This is the final barrier against water damage. Apply a generous bead of bathroom-grade, mold-resistant caulk along all edges of the tub where it meets the walls and floor. Smooth the bead with a wet finger or caulking tool for a clean, professional finish. Ensure there are no gaps.

For more intricate details on waterproofing and wall finishing, resources like those from the Building Science Information can offer deeper insights into best practices for moisture management in bathrooms.

Tips for a Smooth Process

Even with a clear plan, unexpected issues can arise. Here are some essential tips to keep in mind:

Get Help: Bathtubs are hefty. Always have at least one, preferably two, strong helpers, especially for removal and installation.
Protect Your Floor: Lay down sturdy drop cloths or cardboard from the entrance to the bathroom all the way to the tub area. This protects your flooring from scratches and water damage.
Work Top-Down: For alcove tubs, remove any wall coverings (tile, drywall) above the tub first. This gives you better access to the tub flange.
Be Patient with Old Plumbing: Old pipes can be brittle or corroded. If you encounter resistance or difficulty disconnecting pipes, use penetrating oil and gentle persuasion. If a pipe breaks, be prepared to repair or replace the section.
Measure Twice, Cut Once: This golden rule applies to cutting into walls or modifying anything in the installation process.
Manufacturer Instructions are Your Friend: Always refer to the specific installation manual for your new bathtub and plumbing fixtures. They contain crucial details unique to your products.
Consider the Subfloor: Cast iron and some acrylic tubs are very heavy. Ensure your subfloor is strong enough to support the tub’s weight, especially when filled with water and people. You might need to add plywood reinforcement.
Don’t Forget Ventilation: Proper ventilation during and after the project is key to preventing mold and mildew. Ensure your bathroom fan is working well.

Maintaining Your New Bathtub

Once your beautiful new bathtub is installed, a little regular care will keep it looking great for years to come.

Clean Regularly: Wipe down your tub after each use to prevent soap scum buildup. Use mild, non-abrasive cleaners specifically designed for your tub’s material (e.g., acrylic cleaner for acrylic tubs).
Avoid Harsh Chemicals: Never use abrasive scouring pads, steel wool, or harsh chemical cleaners (like undiluted bleach or ammonia) on your new tub, as they can scratch, dull, or damage the finish.
Address Stains Immediately: Deal with any stains as soon as you notice them. For stubborn stains, consult the manufacturer’s recommendations for safe removal methods.
Check Sealant: Periodically inspect the caulk around the tub. If you notice any signs of mold, mildew, or degradation, remove the old caulk and reapply a fresh bead.

FAQ: Your Bathtub Replacement Questions Answered

Q1: How long does it typically take to replace a bathtub?

A1: For a DIYer, removing an old tub and installing a new one can take anywhere from one to three days, depending on your experience, the complexity of the plumbing, and how long it takes to prep the space. If you encounter major plumbing issues or need to repair the subfloor, it could take longer.

Q2: Do I need a permit to replace a bathtub?

A2: It depends on your local building codes. Minor replacements that don’t involve altering structural elements or major plumbing might not require a permit. However, if you’re rerouting pipes or making significant structural changes, a permit is likely needed. It’s best to check with your local building department.

Q3: What’s the biggest mistake beginners make when replacing a bathtub?

A3: One of the most common mistakes is not properly checking for leaks after installation. Another is underestimating the weight and bulk of the tub, leading to damage during removal or installation. Also, failing to ensure the tub is perfectly level is a frequent oversight, which can lead to drainage issues.

Q4: Can I replace a bathtub without touching the surrounding tile or walls?

A4: It’s often difficult, especially with alcove tubs where the flange is secured behind the wall. You’ll typically need to remove at least a portion of the wall material above the tub to access and detach the flange. For some insert or drop-in