Yes, you can replace your bathtub yourself! This guide breaks down how to replace a bathtub without a plumber, covering everything from preparation and removal to installation and finishing touches. With clear steps and helpful tips, you’ll be enjoying your new tub in no time.
Tired of that old, chipped, or outdated bathtub? Many homeowners dream of a bathroom refresh but hesitate at the thought of calling in a plumber, picturing hefty bills and complicated work. But what if I told you that replacing your bathtub is a project you can tackle yourself? It’s completely achievable, even if you’re new to DIY. This guide is designed to walk you through the entire process, step-by-step, making it feel less daunting and more like an exciting home improvement adventure.
We’ll cover everything from what tools you’ll need to how to safely remove the old tub and install a shiny new one. You’ll learn how to handle the plumbing connections with confidence and how to finish the job so it looks professionally done. Get ready to transform your bathroom and boost your home’s value – all by yourself!
Why Replace Your Bathtub?
Bathtubs, like anything in our homes, age and wear out. Sometimes, the reason for a replacement is purely aesthetic. That avocado green tub from the 70s might not fit your modern bathroom design! Other times, the damage is more functional – cracks, chips, or persistent leaks can lead to bigger problems if ignored. Persistent stains that won’t come clean or wear and tear that makes the tub uncomfortable can also be strong motivators for an upgrade.
A new bathtub can dramatically change the look and feel of your bathroom. It’s a significant fixture, and updating it can make the entire space feel more modern, luxurious, and clean. Beyond aesthetics, a new tub can also improve efficiency and prevent water damage. Sometimes, you might even be considering a different type of tub, like a deeper soaking tub or a walk-in shower conversion, which would naturally require a full replacement.
Is This a DIY Project for You?
Replacing a bathtub is a moderately challenging DIY project. It requires a good amount of physical effort, precision, and a willingness to learn. You’ll need to be comfortable with basic demolition, manual labor, and some plumbing connections. If you enjoy hands-on tasks and are up for a challenge, this is definitely a project you can do. It’s a fantastic way to save money and gain a sense of accomplishment.
However, if you’re uncomfortable with heavy lifting, dealing with plumbing, or have limited tools and space, it might be wise to get some help or focus on smaller DIY tasks first. But for the adventurous DIYer, this guide is your roadmap to success. We’ll break down each step to make it as straightforward as possible.
What You’ll Need: Tools and Materials
Gathering all your tools and materials before you begin is crucial for a smooth project. It saves time and prevents frustration when you realize you’re missing something mid-job. Here’s a comprehensive list:
Essential Tools:
- Safety Glasses: Protect your eyes from debris.
- Work Gloves: Keep your hands safe and provide a better grip.
- Pry Bar Set: For loosening and prying off trim, fixtures, and old caulk.
- Utility Knife: To cut through caulk and sealant.
- Screwdrivers (Phillips and Flathead): For removing fixtures and drain components.
- Adjustable Wrench or Pipe Wrench: For loosening and tightening plumbing connections.
- Plumber’s Putty or Silicone Sealant: For sealing the drain and around the tub.
- Bucket: To catch any residual water from the drainpipe.
- Shop Vacuum: To clean up dust and debris.
- Hammer: For tapping and loosening stubborn parts.
- Reciprocating Saw (Sawzall) with appropriate blades: Essential for cutting through old caulk, nails, and sometimes even the tub itself if it’s fiberglass or acrylic and needs to be broken down for removal.
- Level: To ensure the new tub is installed correctly.
- Measuring Tape: For accurate measurements.
- Caulking Gun: For applying sealant.
- Drop Cloths or Newspaper: To protect your floor.
- Pliers (various types, like Slip-Joint and Groove-Joint): For gripping and turning.
- Putty Knife: For scraping away old sealant.
Materials:
- New Bathtub: Choose the material (acrylic, fiberglass, cast iron, steel) and style that suits your needs and bathroom.
- Bathtub Drain Assembly: Ensure it’s compatible with your new tub and plumbing.
- Overflow Plate and Gasket: Typically comes with the drain assembly.
- New Faucet Fixtures (Optional but recommended): If you’re updating the look.
- Submersible Pump (Optional but helpful): If you need to drain the tub and can’t do so through the normal drain.
- Plywood or Construction Board (if subfloor repair is needed).
- Drywall Repair Materials (if necessary).
- New Caulk (Kitchen & Bath Silicone).
- Shims: For leveling the new tub.
Preparing the Bathroom for a Bathtub Replacement
Proper preparation is key to any successful DIY project. It ensures safety, efficiency, and minimizes damage to your home. This stage involves clearing the space, protecting your belongings, and shutting off utilities.
Step 1: Clear the Work Area
Remove everything from the bathroom that you can. This includes towels, bath mats, toiletries, shower curtains, and any wall decor. Move portable furniture out of the room. The more space you have to work, the easier and safer the job will be.
Step 2: Protect Your Flooring
Lay down drop cloths or old newspapers on the floor leading from the entrance to the bathroom and inside the bathroom itself. Pay special attention to protecting the floor around the bathtub area. This will catch dust, debris, and any accidental spills – saving you from a huge cleaning mess.
Step 3: Shut Off the Water Supply
This is a critical safety step. Locate the main water shut-off valve for your house and turn it off. If your bathroom has its own shut-off valves (often located behind an access panel near the tub or toilet), you can use those. Once the main water is off, open your faucets to drain any remaining water from the pipes.
Step 4: Disconnect Electrical Power (If Necessary)
If you have any electrical outlets or fixtures very close to the bathtub area, it’s a good idea to shut off the power to the bathroom at your home’s circuit breaker panel. This is an extra layer of safety, especially if you’re using power tools.
Removing the Old Bathtub
This is where the physical work begins. Careful removal prevents damage to surrounding walls and plumbing. The method for removal can vary slightly depending on the type of tub you have (e.g., alcove, freestanding, drop-in) and how it’s installed.
Step 5: Disconnect Plumbing Fixtures
Start with the faucet and showerhead. Use your adjustable wrench to carefully unscrew trim pieces, handles, and the spout. You may need to pry off decorative caps to access screws. For the drain, use pliers or a pipe wrench to unscrew the drain fitting located within the tub’s overflow plate. Have a bucket ready underneath, as there might be some residual water.
Tip: If the faucet or drain is old and corroded, they can be difficult to remove. Sometimes a little penetrating oil can help, applied a few hours before you plan to work on it.
For the drain shoe (the part that connects to the drainpipe), you’ll typically unscrew it from the inside of the tub. If it’s sealed with plumber’s putty, you might need to use a putty knife to break the seal. You can find detailed instructions on drain removal from resources like This Old House.
Step 6: Remove Surround and Caulk
If your tub has a surround (like tile or an acrylic/fiberglass surround), you’ll need to dismantle that first. Carefully score along the edges where the surround meets the wall with a utility knife. Use a pry bar to gently separate the surround from the studs. If you have tile, you might need to remove grout and then carefully pry tiles away. For alcove bathtubs, you’ll typically have a lip of the tub that’s covered by wall material or caulk. Cut through this caulk with your utility knife.
Step 7: Detach the Tub from the Wall
Most alcove bathtubs have a nailing flange that attaches the tub to the wall studs. This flange is usually hidden behind the wall material (drywall, plaster, etc.). You’ll need to carefully remove the wall material around the top and sides of the tub to expose this flange. Once exposed, you’ll see nails or screws holding it in place. Use your reciprocating saw to cut through nails or screws that are difficult to reach or remove. For tubs not attached to studs (like some freestanding models), this step might be simpler.
Step 8: Break Down and Remove the Tub (If Necessary)
This is often the trickiest part, especially if you have a large tub or a narrow doorway. Cast iron tubs are incredibly heavy and usually require professional removal. However, fiberglass and acrylic tubs are lighter and can often be cut into smaller, more manageable pieces with a reciprocating saw. Be cautious when cutting, wear your safety glasses and gloves, and be aware of any plumbing or wiring behind the tub.
Important: If you are removing a heavy material like cast iron, and you’re unsure about lifting it, it’s safer to hire help or rent a specialized dolly. Never risk injury.
Once loose, you can maneuver the tub out of the bathroom. You might need to tilt it or rotate it to get it through doorways. If you cut it, remove the pieces carefully.
Installing the New Bathtub
With the old tub gone, it’s time to bring in the new one! This phase requires precision to ensure a watertight and secure installation. It’s a good idea to have a helper for lifting and positioning the new tub.
Step 9: Prepare the Subfloor and Walls
Before placing the new tub, inspect the subfloor and walls. Repair any water damage, rot, or mold. Ensure the subfloor is clean, level, and has adequate support. If not, you may need to replace sections of subflooring or add bracing. If the walls were damaged during tub removal, patch and repair the drywall or other wall materials.
Step 10: Get the New Tub in Place
Carefully carry your new tub into the bathroom. Again, this is where a helper is invaluable. If your tub needs to be maneuvered through tight spots, consider tilting it on its side. Use the manufacturer’s instructions as your guide, as they may have specific recommendations for handling and installation.
Step 11: Position and Level the Tub
Slide the new tub into its alcove or designated spot. Use your level to ensure it’s perfectly level in both directions. Bathtubs often have leveling feet or require shims placed under the edges to achieve a stable, level installation. This is crucial for proper drainage and for ensuring that water doesn’t pool on the tub floor.
A table showing common bathtub types and their installation considerations:
| Tub Type | Weight | Installation Considerations | DIY Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|
| Acrylic/Fiberglass | Lightweight | Easy to cut/maneuver. Can flex, requires solid support. | Beginner to Intermediate |
| Steel (Enamel Coated) | Moderate | Durable, can chip. Needs careful handling to avoid scratching surface. | Intermediate |
| Cast Iron (Enamel Coated) | Very Heavy | Extremely durable, requires significant structural support and lifting. | Advanced (or Hire Pros) |
| Solid Surface (e.g., Cultured Marble) | Heavy | Durable, repairable, can be very heavy. | Intermediate to Advanced |
Step 12: Secure the Tub and Attach the Drain
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to secure the tub. For alcove tubs, this often involves shimming and then attaching the nailing flange to the studs with screws. Ensure the flange is flush with the studs before securing.
Install the new drain assembly. This typically involves applying plumber’s putty or silicone sealant around the drain opening on the inside of the tub. Insert the drain flange from inside the tub, then attach the drain shoe from underneath the tub, connecting it to the existing drainpipe. Tighten securely.
Here’s how the drain assembly typically connects:
- Top Part: The drain flange screws into the main body of the drain assembly inside the tub.
- Bottom Part: The drain shoe connects to the tub’s drain opening from below. It often has a rubber gasket and nut to create a watertight seal.
- Connected Pipes: The drain shoe then connects to your home’s P-trap and drainpipe.
You can find excellent visual guides on drain installation from plumbing experts like those at Family Handyman.
Step 13: Connect Supply Lines and Test for Leaks
If you’re installing new faucet fixtures, connect the hot and cold water supply lines to the valve body and then attach the faucet. Ensure all connections are tightened properly.
Before you seal everything up, it’s time for the most important test: turn the water supply back on slowly. Fill the tub partially, and check meticulously for any leaks at the drain connection, overflow plate, and faucet connections. Let it sit for a while, then drain it completely, watching closely for leaks under the tub and at the drainpipe connection. This step is critical to avoid water damage later.
Finishing Touches: Sealing and Walls
Once you’re confident there are no leaks, it’s time to make the tub look integrated and professional.
Step 14: Seal the Edges (Caulking)
Apply a bead of high-quality, mildew-resistant silicone caulk around the entire perimeter where the tub meets the walls. Use your caulk gun for a smooth, even line. Smooth the bead with a wet finger or a caulk-finishing tool for a clean, professional look. This keeps water from seeping behind the tub and into your walls.
Step 15: Reinstall Wall Surround or Finish Walls
If you had a surround, reinstall it, ensuring a tight fit against the tub. If you had to cut away drywall, patch it now, sand it smooth, prime, and paint. If you plan to tile the area around the tub, this would be the next step.
Step 16: Install Trim and Fixtures
Reattach any trim pieces, the overflow plate cover, and the drain stopper. Install your shower head and any other accessories.
FAQ: Your Bathtub Replacement Questions Answered
Q1: How long does it typically take to replace a bathtub?
A: For a DIYer, budget about 2-3 days. Day 1 for removal and prep, Day 2 for installation and initial plumbing checks, and Day 3 for sealing, wall finishing, and final hookups. This can vary based on complexity and your skill level.
Q2: What’s the easiest type of bathtub to install for a DIYer?
A: Acrylic and fiberglass tubs are generally the easiest due to their lightweight nature and ease of cutting if needed. They also come in many standard sizes for alcove installations.
Q3: Do I really need a helper?
A: Yes, a helper is highly recommended, especially for lifting and maneuvering the old tub out and the new tub in. Bathtubs are awkward and heavy, and having an extra pair of hands makes the job much safer and easier.
Q4: What kind of caulk should I use around a bathtub?
A: Use a 100% silicone caulk specifically labeled for kitchens and bathrooms. This type is mildew-resistant and provides a durable, waterproof seal. Avoid acrylic latex caulks, as they are less durable for wet environments.
Q5: What if I can’t get the old drain to budge?
A: Old drains can be seized with corrosion. Try applying a penetrating oil (like WD-40) and letting it sit for a few hours. Sometimes, gentle heat from a hairdryer can also help expand metal parts slightly. If it’s still stuck, you might need a specialized drain removal tool, or it might be time to