Quick Summary
Replacing a drain is a straightforward DIY task! This comprehensive guide breaks down the process with clear, step-by-step instructions, making it easy to tackle even for beginners. You’ll learn the tools you need, how to remove the old drain, and install a new one securely and efficiently, ensuring a leak-free finish.
Drains seem simple, but when they leak or just look tired, replacing them can feel like a daunting plumbing puzzle. Many homeowners worry about water damage or creating bigger problems. But, what if I told you that replacing a sink, tub, or shower drain is a task you can absolutely handle yourself? It doesn’t require a plumbing license, just a little patience and the right approach.
This guide is designed to take the mystery out of it. We’ll walk through everything you need, from understanding what a drain assembly is to the final tightening of your new fixture. No more living with drips or unsightly drain covers. Get ready to gain a new DIY skill and a perfectly functioning drain. Let’s make that old drain a thing of the past!
Understanding Your Drain: The Basics
Before we dive into replacing anything, it’s helpful to know what you’re working with. A drain assembly isn’t just the visible part you see in your sink or tub. It’s a system designed to let water out while preventing clogs and odors.
The main components typically include:
Drain Flange/Strainer: This is the visible metal piece in the sink or tub. It has holes to let water through and a rim that seals against the basin.
Drain Body/Tailpiece: This is the pipe that connects the flange to the trap underneath.
Strainer Locknut: This large nut secures the drain body to the sink or tub from underneath.
Rubber Gasket/Sealing Compounds: These create a watertight seal between the drain body and the fixture.
P-Trap: This U-shaped pipe (usually visible under a sink) is crucial for blocking sewer gases from entering your home. While not always part of the drain replacement itself, it’s directly connected.
Knowing these parts helps when you’re shopping for a replacement and during the installation process.
Why Replace a Drain? Common Issues and Solutions
There are several reasons why you might need to replace a drain. Understanding the “why” behind it can help you spot problems early and choose the right replacement.
Common Problems:
Leaks: This is the most common culprit. A leaky drain can cause water damage under your sink or behind your tub walls. Often, the seals or gaskets have deteriorated.
Corrosion and Rust: Older drains, especially those made of brass or other metals, can corrode over time. This looks unsightly and can lead to weak points where leaks can develop.
Damage: The drain flange can be chipped, cracked, or bent, especially if heavy objects are dropped in the sink or tub.
Outdated Appearance: Sometimes, you just want to update the look of your bathroom or kitchen. A new drain can be a small but impactful change.
Persistent Clogs: While clogs are usually a separate plumbing issue, a damaged or improperly installed drain can contribute to them. Replacing it might be part of a larger fix.
The Proven Fix: A Complete Replacement
The “proven fix” for most of these issues is a complete drain replacement. Trying to patch or re-seal a severely corroded or damaged drain is often a temporary solution at best. Installing a new, high-quality drain assembly ensures a watertight seal and a fresh start for your fixture.
Tools and Materials You’ll Need
Don’t let the word “tools” intimidate you! Most of these are common household items. Having them ready makes the job go smoothly.
Replacement Drain Assembly: Make sure it’s compatible with your sink or tub type (kitchen sink, bathroom sink, tub). They come in various finishes and types (e.g., with or without a stopper mechanism).
Plumber’s Putty or Silicone Sealant: Essential for creating a watertight seal between the drain flange and the fixture. Silicone is often preferred for its durability and flexibility, especially in showers and tubs. Plumber’s putty works well for most sinks.
Pipe Wrench or Adjustable Wrench: For loosening and tightening the large locknut under the drain.
Pliers (Channel-lock or water pump pliers): Useful for gripping stubborn parts.
Screwdriver: Flathead and Phillips head, though less common these apps.
Bucket or Towels: To catch any residual water and protect your cabinets or floor from drips.
Rag or Sponge: For cleaning up.
Safety Glasses: Protect your eyes from debris.
Gloves (optional): To keep your hands clean.
Wire Hanger or Coat Hanger (for tight spaces): Can sometimes help unseat an old drain.
Putty Knife or Scraper: To remove old putty or sealant.
Penetrating Oil (like WD-40): If parts are stuck and won’t budge easily (use sparingly and wipe clean).
—
Why Plumber’s Putty vs. Silicone?
This is a common question for beginners!
| Application | Recommended Sealant | Why |
| :——————- | :————————– | :———————————————————————————————————————————– |
| Kitchen/Bathroom Sinks | Plumber’s Putty or Silicone | Plumber’s putty is traditional and effective for sinks where there’s no constant submersion. Silicone offers a more robust, longer-lasting, and flexible seal, especially for areas prone to moisture. |
| Tubs and Showers | Silicone Sealant | Constant exposure to water and temperature changes makes silicone the better choice for tubs and showers. It provides a more reliable, watertight, and durable seal. |
—
Step-by-Step Guide: Replacing Your Drain
Let’s get started! Remember to work at a comfortable pace. Safety first – make sure you have good lighting and clear access to the area under the drain.
Step 1: Preparation and Safety
Gather your tools and new drain assembly. Double-check that your new drain is the correct type and size for your fixture.
Clear the area. Remove any items from under the sink or around the tub so you have plenty of room to work.
Place a bucket and towels under the drainpipe to catch any water that might drip out when you disconnect the old drain.
Put on your safety glasses.
Step 2: Removing the Old Drain Assembly
This is often the trickiest part. Old drains can be stuck!
1. For Sink Drains:
Look underneath the sink where the drainpipe connects to the sink basin. You’ll see a large locknut.
Using your pipe wrench or adjustable wrench, grip the locknut and turn it counter-clockwise. You might need to hold the drain flange in the sink steady with your other hand, or have someone help you.
If it’s very stubborn, a little penetrating oil applied to the threads (if accessible) and allowed to sit for a bit can help.
Once the locknut is loose, gently pull the old drain body down from under the sink.
In the sink basin itself, the old drain flange might still be in place. You may need to unscrew it by hand from the top if it’s not too tight. If it’s sealed with putty, you might need to carefully pry it up using a putty knife, working around the edge.
2. For Tub Drains:
Most tub drains have a strainer that screws into the drain body. Some have a stopper mechanism that covers the drain holes.
If it’s a pop-up drain: You’ll likely need to remove the stopper assembly first. Often, this involves unscrewing a cap or accessing a lever from the overflow plate on the tub wall. Refer to your tub’s specific drain type if unsure. Once the stopper is out, you’ll see the strainer.
Removing the strainer: You can often use a tub drain wrench (a special tool that fits inside the strainer holes) or a large Allen wrench. Some strainers can be unscrewed by hand. If it’s been sealed tightly, you might need to use pliers or a pipe wrench to grip the outside of the strainer and turn it counter-clockwise.
Once the top strainer is removed, look into the drain opening. You’ll see the drain body extending down. You’ll typically need to access this from the access panel behind the tub wall (if you have one) or from below if it’s an accessible crawl space.
Using your pipe wrench, grip the large locknut that secures the drain body to the tub and turn it counter-clockwise.
Once loose, pull the drain body down and out from under the tub.
Step 3: Cleaning the Opening
Once the old drain is completely removed, you’ll see the opening in your sink basin or tub.
Use a putty knife or scraper to carefully remove any old plumber’s putty, sealant, or gunk. Be thorough! A clean surface is key to a good seal.
Wipe the area clean with a rag or sponge.
Step 4: Installing the New Drain Flange (Top Part)
1. Apply Sealant:
For sinks: Roll a rope of plumber’s putty into a snake about 1/4-inch thick. Press this firmly around the underside of the new drain flange where it will meet the sink. Alternatively, apply a bead of silicone sealant.
For tubs: Apply a generous bead of silicone sealant around the underside of the new drain flange. Make sure it creates a complete circle.
2. Insert the Flange:
Carefully insert the new drain flange into the opening from the top of the sink or tub. Press it down firmly so the sealant makes contact all the way around.
If it’s a tub drain, you might screw the strainer part back in temporarily by hand to hold the flange in place while you work underneath.
Step 5: Securing the New Drain Body (Underneath)
1. Position the New Drain Body:
From underneath, slide the new drain body (the pipe part) up into the opening from the sink or tub.
Ensure the threads are aligned correctly with the flange above.
2. Install the Gasket and Locknut:
Slide the large rubber gasket and then the metal washer (if included) onto the threads of the drain body from underneath.
Hand-tighten the locknut onto the drain body threads to secure the gasket against the bottom of the sink or tub.
3. Tighten the Locknut:
Now, use your pipe wrench or adjustable wrench to tighten the locknut.
Tighten it firmly until snug, but be careful not to overtighten, which can crack porcelain or damage plastic. You want it tight enough to compress the gasket and create a watertight seal, but not so tight that you strip the threads or crack the fixture.
From the top, ensure the drain flange is straight and centered as you tighten.
Step 6: Final Connections and Testing
1. Connect to P-Trap (Sink Drains):
Reattach any pipes you might have disconnected from the old drain’s tailpiece, including the P-trap. Hand-tighten the slip nuts first, then give them a quarter turn with pliers if needed.
Make sure all the connections are secure.
2. Install Stopper and Trim (Tub Drains):
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to install the new stopper mechanism and any decorative trim pieces for your tub drain.
3. The Leak Test:
This is crucial! Place the stopper in your sink or tub.
Fill the sink or tub with a few inches of water.
Let it sit for at least 10-15 minutes.
While it’s filling and sitting, check all the connections underneath for any drips. Use a dry paper towel to wipe around nuts and gaskets – any moisture will be easily visible on the paper towel.
For sinks, also test the faucet and watch for leaks around the drain flange.
If you see any drips, turn off the water, drain the basin, and gently tighten the locknut slightly. If the leak persists, you may need to disassemble the connection, clean it, re-apply sealant, and reassemble.
| What to Check | Potential Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Leak from under locknut | Locknut not tight enough | Tighten locknut slightly. |
| Leak from under locknut | Damaged gasket or improper seating | Loosen, reseat gasket, reapply sealant if needed (especially for tubs), and retighten. |
| Leak around drain flange (sink/tub) | Sealant (putty/silicone) failure or insufficient amount | Remove drain, clean opening, apply fresh sealant, and reinstall. |
| Water drains too slowly | Obstruction in P-trap or line | Check and clean P-trap. If issue persists, may need drain snake. |
Step 7: Clean Up
Wipe away any excess sealant that squeezed out around the drain flange.
Collect your tools, clean them, and put everything away.
Dispose of the old drain assembly properly.
Tips for a Successful Drain Replacement
Read the New Drain’s Instructions: Every drain is a little different. Always consult the manufacturer’s specific instructions for your new assembly.
Don’t Force It: If a part is extremely difficult to remove or install, step back and re-evaluate. Forcing it can cause damage.
Consider a Drain Wrench: For standard tub drains, a dedicated tub drain wrench can make removing the old strainer and installing the new one much easier and safer, preventing damage to the fixture. You can often rent these from tool rental shops.
When In Doubt, Call a Pro: If you encounter significant issues, like pipes that won’t budge, rusted-shut nuts, or if you’re simply not comfortable, don’t hesitate to call a licensed plumber.
Understanding Drain Types and Materials
Choosing the right replacement drain is important. Here’s a quick look at common types and materials:
Drain Types Explained
Strainer Only: Just the perforated piece, typically for sinks where a separate stopper is used or not needed.
Basket Strainer Assembly: A common sink drain with a removable basket to catch debris.
Strainer with Pop-Up Stopper: Found in most bathroom sinks and tubs, operated by a lever or knob.
Toe-Touch Stopper: A tub drain stopper that you push with your toe to open and close.
Flip-It Stopper: A drain stopper with a lever on the side to flip for opening and closing.
Common Materials and Their Pros/Cons
Plastic (ABS/PVC):
Pros: Inexpensive, lightweight, corrosion-resistant, easy to cut and glue.
Cons: Less durable against heat and impact, can become brittle over time, not as aesthetically pleasing as metal.
Best For: Budget-conscious repairs, areas where corrosion is a major concern (though metal options are often better long-term).
Brass (with Chrome, Nickel, or Bronze Finish):
Pros: Durable, corrosion-resistant, classic look, can be polished to a high shine.
Cons: Can be more expensive, finishes can wear off if not well-maintained.
Best For: Most sink and tub applications, offering a good balance of durability and appearance.
Stainless Steel:
Pros: Very durable, highly resistant to corrosion and staining, modern look.
Cons: Can be more expensive, can scratch.
Best For: Kitchen sinks, areas with high usage or where a modern aesthetic is desired.
Cast Iron (Cast Brass):
Pros: Extremely durable, heavy-duty, long-lasting.
Cons: Heavy, expensive, can be prone to corrosion if plating wears off.
Best For: High-end applications or where extreme longevity is paramount.
For most DIYers, a good quality brass or stainless steel drain assembly for sinks, and a brass or durable plastic assembly for tubs, will provide the best results.
Where to Find Authoritative Information
For understanding plumbing codes and best practices, you can refer to resources like the International Code Council (ICC). While you won’t need to consult the entire codebook for a simple drain replacement, understanding that these systems operate under established safety standards is reassuring. Reputable plumbing supply stores and manufacturer websites also offer excellent installation guides and product support.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Q1: How much water pressure can a new drain handle?
A standard new drain assembly is designed to handle normal household water flow from a sink or tub. They are not rated for high-pressure industrial use. The key is a secure, watertight seal to prevent leaks, not to withstand extreme pressure.